The Courier-Mail  (Brisbane)  goodlife  TETE-A-TETE  Tuesday 19 October 2004 

An Aussie country boy has plans to become the barbecue king of the world, writes Nick Bray.

Graham Manvell thrives on a challenge.

Its an attitude that has served him well throughout his 27-year career as a chef, restaurateur and businessman.

So when it came to finding a venue for the Brisbane branch of his chain of SSS BBQ Barns, it seems fitting he chose a site that was not an auspicious one for its two previous occupants.

At the intersection of Queen and Ann streets at the Valley end of the CBD, the space first opened as Murray Williams eponymous restaurant, but closed not long after when the Radisson Hotel in which it was housed went into receivership. After laying empty for some time Graham Arthur and Stephen Browne moved in, renaming it Alba, but it, too, had a short life.

Some people would think it madness to follow in those footsteps.

Not Manvell, who left Tamworth at the age of 16 to take up an apprenticeship at Sydneys Sebel Townhouse.

After youve got up and running a few restaurants in venues which have failed once or twice before, you learn a few things, he says during an animated conversation at the bar.

One of them is that if you get a reputation for serving the best of something, people will travel to experience it.

Manvell, 45, and his wife and business partner Marlene observed this firsthand while working in Britain and Europe, where discerning diners will make significant detours for, say, the best foie gras.

After some time at the legendary Savoy, where he worked on one of the last coal ranges in London, Manvell went on to leading kitchens in Europe and Australia. He also competed in Culinary Olympics staged around the world, winning several gold medals.

When youre competing at that level you learn about the importance of specialising in regional produce, he says.

I love the idea of knowing a product from the ground up, knowing that it hasnt been sprayed or pumped up.

When it came time to settle down and raise a family, Manvell put all his knowledge and experience into practice.

We wanted to raise the children in Tamworth where we have family, he says.

But we also wanted to create what we had experienced while in Europe.

Tamworths first fine-dining restaurant, Jumbuck Cottage, opened in 1990. Located down a little side track at the edge of Tamworth, it quickly gained a sterling reputation, drawing customers from far and wide.

It used to surprise a lot of city slickers, Manvell says of Jumbuck.

But there was a lot more in store.

Fine dining has been changing for more than 10 years  its now more relaxed. We wanted to grow the company and take the idea of country hospitality around Australia.  

The first SSS BBQ Barn opened in Tamworth in 1993.

It was bloody hard work, Manvell says. The banks almost foreclosed on us. But we thought it were going to go broke, were going to go broke doing the thing properly and within 12 months it started turning around.

In the case of SSS BBQ Barns, doing it properly means sourcing the best produce, cooking it well and serving it in a relaxed atmosphere.

Manvell drew on his vast overseas experience again when creating the atmosphere.

For example, a visit to Singapores Raffles Hotel inspired him to encourage diners to throw the shells of their complimentary peanuts on the floor.

It immediately relaxes people. They feel at home, Manvell says.

Theres an American dedication to friendly service and generous servings.

And theres a European commitment to regional produce of the highest standard.

So much so, that in 1999 the Manvells decided to start producing their own.

They now farm buffalo and beef on three properties near Tamworth. Its a measure of their success that they won Best Dexter Cow and Calf at Sydneys 2003 Royal Easter Show.

They grow grapes at three boutique vineyards in the New England region and make their own wine under the Lazy Poet label.

And they brew their own ale in their boutique Ironbark Brewery.

If you really want to know it, you just cant go out and buy produce, Manvell says.

You have to grow it yourself and you have to be passionate about it.

Anything you want to know about the products at SSS, I can tell you.

Its been a steep learning curve, but Manvell has made a policy of seeking advice from the best sources.

John Cassegrain was very helpful with the vineyards and winemaking, he says. We seek out people who are very good at what they do, but we also bring in a practical approach that weve acquired over the years.

This approach is paying dividends.

There are now five SSS BBQ Barns, with the Brisbane and Tamworth restaurants owned and operated by the Manvells. The other three, at Coffs Harbour, Cessnock and Lake Munmorah in NSW, are owned by franchisees, with the Manvells keeping a close eye on operations.

As the name implies, they all specialise in serving barbecued steaks, beef and buffalo, and they have a richly deserved reputation for their baby ribs.

Since 1997, SSS has won 25 awards, including best steak restaurant, best themed restaurant in NSW and regional business awards.

Im living the dream, says Manvell, who is now based in Brisbane.

Were at the stage where were moving the franchising ahead.

Wed really like to see it in every city and provincial town, but the dream is hinged on the quality factor.

If it doesnt stack up  being able to ensure consistent supply of quality produce  we wont do it.

Pressed on his ultimate ambition, theres a rare pause in Manvells conversation.

The big dream would be to take the business to the United States.

Now thats a challenge.

DETAILS

SSS BBQ Barns, cnr Queen and Ann streets, is open for dinner seven nights a week. Ph: 3839 1162.